BMW E39 M5 with Toyota Supra Twin Turbo Engine

If you've ever owned or been around BMWs and especially the M performance models, you should know that they're not the best cars for fiddling around with in your garage. But once you go down that tuning route, it's hard to go back, which is what happened to the owner of this 2002 BMW M5 E39 sedan, which in factory trim, gained its power from a naturally-aspirated 4.9-liter V8 twisting out 400PS (395hp).

Even though there was nothing wrong with the motor, owner Ed Mui wanted more at a lower cost, so he swapped the Bavarian V8 for a…twin-turbo unit from a Toyota Supra.

In an interview with Eurotuner magazine in 2010, Mui explained the reasoning behind his decision:

"I purchased the car in 11/07 as a daily driver in Manhattan and vowed to keep it stock," he said, pointing out that he soon changed his mind and started adding a number of parts. The problem, however, was the constant and expensive maintenance.

"Being around E-shift and all the 1JZ- and 2JZ-powered cars, I figured I could've spent all the maintenance dollars on mods if it were a Japanese import," he added. "After spending several grand on the car, I didn't even have any performance mods. So I started looking at prices and while everything would cost over $10k, I was disappointed to discover they wouldn't increase the M5's power by even 100whp. And with E-shift already doing several successful swaps, I thought why not the M5?"

Now, two years after that interview, Mui has decided to part ways with the Supra-powered M5.

"I really don't want to give up this car, but I plan to move to Asia next year and will start the sale process for the car now," he said on the Bimmerforums, where he has listed the car for sale at $22,000 or best offer.

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Nismo

Nismo  is the motorsports and performance division of Nissan Motor Company. Formed in 1984 as a result of a merger of two motorsport departments, Nismo cars have participated in JSPC, Formula Nippon, JTCC, 24 Hours of Le Mans and 24 Hours of Daytona. They currently participate in the Super GT and FIA GT Championship.
In 1984, Nissan decided that it wanted to merge its two motorsport division, founded in the late 1960s, they were Publication Division 3, based in its Oppama factory, responsible for the needs of privateer teams and Special Car Testing Division, within its Ōmori plant, responsible for its factory operations.The company's intention following the merger was to specialize in sportscar racing, but it also provided support for teams competing in the domestic F3 series.

In 1988, NISMO built its first car, the Saurus for motorsport use for its one-make series. The following year they developed the Skyline GT-R for racing as well as building the 500 evolution editions for road.

Nismo designs and manufactures a range of aftermarket performance parts for Nissan cars including Aerodynamics parts such as spoilers and diffusers, alloy wheels, engine andsuspension parts.

Most Datsun, Nissan, and Infiniti branded cars have performance parts available from Nismo, either in production or as old stock. For example, Nismo sells parts such as unground cam billets, performance cams, pistons, etc. for the KA24E engine, which was used in the Nissan small pickup truck for several years and also used for the 1989 and 1990 model years of 240SX, a popular car among Import scene enthusiasts (especially Drifters) in North America.

In Japan, the V35 Skyline and Z33 Fairlady have both received several levels of Nismo tuning packages (E-Type, S-Tune, R-Tune, and S1 packages), with a full track spec Fairlady Z debuted at the 2005 Nismo Festival of Speed held at (formerly) Fuji International Raceway.

In February 2007, Nismo announced the launch of the Nismo 380RS. The Nismo 380RS is a factory modified version of the Nissan Z33 Fairlady Z tuned by both Nismo and Autech. Two versions were released, the first was a track-only model called the 380RS-C (C for competition), the second is a street model being sold at Nissan dealers. Both versions use a Nissan VQ series V6 engine, bored and stroked to 3.8L. The track-only 380RS-C makes 400 hp (298 kW), and the street version makes approximately 350 hp (261 kW). The Nismo 380RS was only sold in Japan

When Nismo released the Skyline GT-R R34 V-Spec complete car, the Z-Tune, because there was a limitation in the number of parts, Nismo was only able to create 20 of them. The complete version sells for 17,745,000 Yen (USD $146,600, as of December 7, 2005) in Japan. However, the parts-conversion version, where the customer's Skyline GT-R's become the base car, sells for 13,125,000 Yen (USD $108,500, as of December 7, 2005). However, it is known that the GT-R Z-tune can exceed the $180,000 USD price tag in car market. The engine is an RB28DETT Z2 (a normal GT-R engine with a stroked displacement of 2.8 liters & Nismo parts designed specifically for the Z2). All of the Z-Tunes have been sold already. The car weighs 1,600 kg.

Nismo was also responsible for the R33 Skyline 400R and S14 Silvia 270R models. Both featured comprehensive modifications to the drivetrain, suspension, brakes, chassis, and aero work. Very limited numbers of both models were sold in 1997, and both command high resale prices even today. These models stressed Nismo's link to street car tuning, and were developed (as was the Z-Tune GT-R) at their Chiba City tuning garage. Nismo street tuned vehicles have been sold at Nissan dealerships for years, and come with full warranties.

Nissan’s Incredible 400hp 1.5-Litre 3-Pot Engine

Take a good look at the engine, because this, ladies and gents, is one hell of a machine. Nissan’s revolutionary DiG-T petrol engine displaces just 1.5 litres from three cylinders, weighs 40kg (88 pounds) and produces the same power figure as a 5.0-litre, E39 M5: that’s right, from 1.5 litres, Nissan’s squeezed 400hp.

The car this incredible little engine will power is Nissan’s unique ZEOD (meaning Zero Emissions on Demand) RC Le Mans racer, which will become the first car to complete a lap of the Circuit de la Sarthe (8.47 miles) in electric mode only. The direct injection and downsized petrol engine (500mm tall, 400mm long, 200mm wide) will then power the ZEOD while the race car’s battery (which drives twin electric motors) is replenished using a regenerative braking system you’d find in a Nissan Leaf Nismo RC.

The ZEOD’s petrol engine will power the car up to speeds of around 185mph and is driven through a five-speed gearbox. The engine also produces 280lb/ft torque and revs to 7500rpm.

Rebirth Yellow Toyota Supra Mk 4 by Keylan Smith

Ok well, the story starts in June of 2007 (I was 19 at the time). The day prior to the “big day”, me and my girlfriend went out to eat with my parents at a local bbq place. Well me and my Dad always talk cars when we get the chance, so it wasn’t surprising that they got brought up during this lunch. Well my mom asks me a rather odd question at the time, but I didn’t pay attention since I just figured she was curious. But she asked, “If you could have ANY car in the world right now, what would it be?” Well me being the realistic type person that I am, I said,”a Supra”. She grinned and asked me why. So I told her how amazing they look, how much power they make, the limitless possibilities with them, how long I had wanted one, etc. and the conversation just kinda died off after that.

Well the next day, my Dad asked me if I wanted to go up to Hamilton with him to pick up a car that he had bought. Hamilton is a car auction that we went to many a times to pick up wrecked cars that my dad always bought at auctions to fix. He used to be a dealer, but recently got out of it. So of course I say yes, cause I am always excited to see what “new” car he got. So I asked him what we would be picking up this time, and he just says a toyota camry. I was like, oh ok, and we hopped in the truck and were off.

We get to this place and we head into the building to pay for the car and get the title as always. As we are walking out of the building my Dad hands me the title and asks me what it says. Confused, I look down at the title and the first thing I see was Toyota. Kept scrolling my eyes over and I seen the beautiful word Supra, and my mouth dropped. I couldn’t believe it. I was expecting to see a MKIII year model, so I quickly glanced around to see what model it was, and to my amazement it said 1997. I looked back at my Dad and he had the biggest grin on his face. He’s like, its pretty hurt, but we’ll be able to fix it (talking about the car). And I know if he says something like that, he means it. After seeing some stuff my Dad has done, I knew to trust him when he said that.

We walk over to where the car sat, and it was like love at first site. Not only was it a Supra sitting there, but it was YELLOW! If there was any color I could want my dream supra to be, it was Yellow! From that moment on I knew it was meant to be. We pulled the truck and trailer around and loaded her up. The whole ride home, I was just thanking my Dad and telling him how much it meant to me. We got home and this is what our new project looked like.

I was now the proud owner of my dream car, and I couldn’t wait to dive right into her. She is a 1997 15th Anniversary, NA auto. Being NA auto, it wasn’t my first choice, but you got to make the best of what you got, and I wasn’t about to complain one bit! I HAD A SUPRA and that was all that mattered!!! Plus, all that can be changed out anyways. We snagged the car for $1700. Not bad at all I would say

Now I have this busted up supra, with no money to start putting towards it to fix it My only option at this point was to get rid of my beloved DSM that I was building. I had dropped around $7000 in the talon, and the only way to get something back, was to let her go. So I posted it up for sale, and shortly after she left my hands. I was able to come out of the deal with $6000 though, so it wasn’t a bad trade.

Got the supra, got some money, now it’s time to start the fun stuff! But first, more pics of when she first got to her new home.

Well, after spending a bunch of time online, and getting in contact with as many people as I could, I was finally able to track down the most vital part of the rebuild. The front clip! Jim @ Turbo Toys in Tampa, FL stepped up big time and had just what I needed. Saved me a crap load of money since I didn’t have to go through toyota and buy all the parts one by one and cost me a fortune. Plus he got to make even more money, on what was probably completely finished off car for him anyways after completely stripping it of everything good. It was only a bare shell to some, but for me it was just what I needed! So October 12th (after having the car for nearly 4 months) me and Dad loaded up the truck and trailer again, and made the 13hr. trek down to Tampa to pick it up.

Now that all the damage had been assessed, it was time to dive head first into the major work. We start getting into the “no turning back stage” even though, most would say that started the moment we got the car. First thing was to get the suspension stuff out of the way so we could start some cutting. Once that was done, we picked a spot and hacked it right off. Nothing accurate or anything at this point, mainly just to get the trashed junk out of the way so we didn’t ahve to fight around it anymore. With that crappy piece off the car and out of the way, we were able to focus our attention on the frame rail. Notice how we “peeled” the outer piece back, exposing the inside of the frame rail. Another thing a lot of people with supras probably have never seen. Reason we did this, is so we can slide the new frame rail into this one, and the double reinforce it with another piece of metal welded to the overlapping pieces. And of course, me being the cleaning type, I had to start doing something with the motor

After getting the driver’s side what we thought was correct we move onto the passenger side. The side that took ALL of the impact. Well since we couldn’t use the firewall, or anything really on that side to judge where the new parts needed to go since we weren’t sure if they were still in the correct location or not, we had to go by the driver’s side. Which wasn’t damaged really in the wreck. So in order to do that we used the new engine crossmember that I bought and the bottom radiator support as guides. So I bolt on the new crossmember on the drivers side, and we go to test fit the new parts on the passenger side and low and behold it lines up like pure poo poo!!! Me and my Dad’s hearts sink. There is at least a 2 in. gap between where the fender mounts and the firewall. No matter how we try to fit it or make it work, something else wouldn’t line up. We were beginning to think that it was a lot worse than what we had orginally thought or even that the driver’s side wasn’t correct like we had thought. That was until I got to looking and noticed that we had bolted the new crossmember up backwards!!! DOH!!! hahahahaha. Meaning that I had the part where the steering rack bolts on, facing towards the firewall! lol. Turned that around and lo-and-behold everything lined up MUCH MUCH MUCH better and me and my dad could both breathe a sign of relief. Really had us scared for a second there. But at the end of the day, this is what she looked like. Really starting to shape up now! Even thought it safe enough to throw a fender on there and she how she looked!

The next time I got to work on her, I reached a goal I had been waiting on for a VERY long time, and that was setting the car back down on the ground and rolling her out of the garage. I had been having trouble locating a used steering rack (and I wasn’t about to pay the price for a new one) until finally a great member on here stepped up and donated one to me. (lowboost, I still haven’t forgotten you man) Once we got that in, we through it on, put the front wheels back on, and out the garage she went, seeing sunlight for the first time in a long time. We took advantage of the beautiful weather and put the new windshield in. It was cheaper than I thought (my dad got it for like $106 brand new). It has since survived 2 different hoods flying up, but we’ll get to that later. Anyways, I also took this opportunity to do something that I just hadn’t thought about since I had the car, and that was taking the targa top out. When I thought about it, I started to get worried cause I got scared it may have gotten pinched during the wreck and might not come out. But to my great relief she came out with ease. Also you can see again, the drivers side quarter panel. Sheesh, I had forgotten how bad it was. Til this day it still isn’t PERFECT (in my eyes) but it’ll get there when I repaint the entire car.

Well, it was finally time to tackle that ugly quarter panel. Unfortunately I was too busy helping Dad with it or I just completely forgot, but I didn’t get any pictures during the process. So that sucks, but the finished product turned out awesome! Like I said, it’s still a little off where the bumper bolts up (the curvature isn’t perfect), but I’ll address that sometime in the future when it comes time to respray the whole car and once I do some more body mods I have in mind (which will require the car to be repainted anyways). The first time we sprayed the quarter panel, the paint did something weird in a couple of spots so we had to sand it back down, throw on some more primer and respray it. But it worked out fine the second time. Also went ahead and painted the front fender. We noticed that the paint we had matched up at the paint place wasn’t the right paint and wasn’t too close of a match. So we did some paint adjusting of our own at the house and got it pretty close. A lot better than what we started with, but still not perfect. The original yellow that was on the car had a TON of metallic to it (most likely a lambo yellow) and the paint we had isn’t as metallic as you’ll see in one of the pics where I take an up close of the bumper and quarter panel.

After getting the engine put back in the car and everything hooked up, we couldn’t get the car to start. It was turning over and over and over, but would never crank. Pulled a fuel line and it was getting fuel for sure. Took a couple of spark plugs out and a couple were getting spark and others weren’t. I was really confused. I thought I may have had the coil wired up wrong since that connector was broke in the wreck so I changed that, still nothing. The igniter checked out as well too. I did a search on here, and people with similar issues said it was the ecu. So I was like GREAT, where the heck am I gonna find an ecu for an obd2 na auto supra! The first parts store I called said that had one in stock for $120! Hahahaha What are the odds of that! It was really like $210, but it had a $90 core charge. Anyways, got home and changed that and STILL the same issue. Anyways, to make a long story short, we just had the distributor 180 degrees out! Lol DOH! After we figured that out, the car fired right up. So after checking all of the fluids and everything, I got to take the car out on it’s maiden voyage. Noticed some vibration in the steering wheel right when I got on the road, so turned around to check it out. Turns out one of the front wheels didn’t get tightened! Dodged a bullet right there! Tightened that up and she drove wonderfully! Only problem was it was running PIG rich! I mean, bad odor of gas driving, fumes burning your eyes, bumper black after driving type pig rich. I knew it was obviously the MAF because I just used the one that I had from buying the wiring harness and the guy had thrown 1 or 2 in of them in there with it. I just assumed it was a TT maf and just dumping way too much fuel. So I buy an NA maf with a K&N from a local guy, but it was for an obd-1 karman vortex car, and I need a hotwire one (so I knew it still probably wouldn’t fix it, but hopefully it would at least be tolerable) Problem was still bad, just not AS bad. Well, one day I got curious and looked up the part number online for the two TT (or at least I thought) MAF sensors. Well it turns out the one I was using first that was running so pig rich was actually from like a v6 camry or something! Hahahaha. NO freaking wonder! Looked up the second MAF and what would you know, it was for an obd-2 NA supra! Hahaha. I had had this MAF this whole time and never used it cause I thought it was the same as the other one that was causing the car to run so rich. Anyways, as soon as I got to go home again, I switched that baby one, and she has ran like she has supposed to ever since!

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JAPO Motorsport GmbH, Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R “JAPO spec”

The factory has shown the way: on the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the company’s own sports department NISMO (NIssan Motorsports International), in 2004, the Japanese presented a special edition limited to exactly 20 vehicles of the legendary Skyline R34 GT-R, the “Z-tune”. Since the production of the R34 had been stopped three years before, naturally, there were no brand-new cars of this series available at that time. NISMO 20 therefore purchased 20 used cars with low mileage which they dismantled down to their individual components and then re-assembled completely. Up to today the extremely rare Z-tune is known as the spearhead of the R34 GT-R family and was referred to as “the world’s best sports car” for a long time – there are many who still do.

It is no wonder that JAPO Motorsport GmbH selected this vehicle as the demo object to start a new field of activity: with the specialised restoration of Japanese super sports cars the performance specialists from Essen are opening up new markets – with used vehicles in good condition which, after extensive restoration, almost have the feel of new cars. The individual concept of each project enables the construction of absolute rarities.

Let’s get back the vehicle: JAPO Motorsport bought a used Nissan R34 GT-R (constructed in 1999, chassis no. BNR34000500), took it apart down to its basic structure, followed by an extremely complex rebuilding – closely based on the legendary Z-tune model in terms of technology and appearance. The 100 percent restoration of the high performance coupés took 3.5 months, the result being truly breathtaking.

Without laying it on thick, original NISMO Z-tune components (front aprons, front mudguards and rear wheel housing) provide the skyline with impressive racing optics. NISMO also offers red rear lights. The expression “Technology made visible” could not be more fitting for anything but the ARC rear diffuser which purists are especially thrilled about due to its edges and naked metal.

Apropos naked metal: the bodywork was completely stripped of paint in the immersion bath, subsequently sealed and painted in the original silver “KY0″, formerly reserved for the Z-tune.

Without exception, JAPO Motorsport refined the legendary RB26DETT straight six cylinder engine bi-turbo motor with a cylinder capacity of 2.5 litres cylinder capacity using the finest HKS components. To name but a few, two GT RS turbo chargers are now blowing into the cylinders with powerful 1.5 bar boost, sparking off a true hell fire. The intercooler, elbows, half pipe, racing suction and chamber kit, injectors, ignition plugs and cylinder head gaskets are also made by HKS. An HKS Fcon Pro standalone engine management system is responsible for the combustion process. Due to its ARC-4 inch titanium exhaust system, you will already hear the JAPO-Skyline from far. Performance measurement resulted in powerful 523 PS and 597 Nm – on the wheel!

Traction with the gearbox is enabled due to a considerably resilient HKS clutch. JAPO Motorsport treated the switch box as well as the rear axle differential with additional coolers by ARC for optimised stability.

There is no doubt about the HKS Hipermax thread chassis – it has absolute cult status among experts. It is supplemented by an ARC strut mounted between the two front strut pillars, which makes the handling of the coupé even more reliable.

Real NISMO Z-tune 9.5×18 inch five spoke wheels are rotating in the GT-R wheel housing. Once they are heated, the Toyo Proxes R888 semi slicks in 265/35R18 offer an extremely high level of grip which should however not be tested to the limits by inexperienced drivers. The serial braking system of the R34 GT-R is often scolded. However, after the installation of a stoptech brake with 355/35 millimetre discs and four-piston callipers in front as well as 355/32 millimetre discs and two-piston callipers on the rear axle, JAPOS’s “new vehicle” now offers deceleration values to make the passengers’ eyeballs bulge.

The interior is sporty, classy and not purist at all. JAPO Motorsport installed leather/alcantara fittings for the front and back seats, the dashboard, the centre console, door and side panels, the columns, the roof liner as well as the rim of the Sparco steering wheel. The NISMO tachometer unit is scaled up to 320 km/h, the large multifunctional display above the centre console was extensively updated and now even includes a lap timer.

Intro : D1 Grand Prix

The D1 Grand Prix,also known as D1GP and subtitled Professional Drift, is a production car driftingseries from Japan. After several years of hosting amateur drifting contests, Daijiro Inada, founder of Option magazine and Tokyo Auto Salon, and drifting legend, Keiichi Tsuchiya, hosted a professional level drifting contest in 1999 and 2000 to feed on the ever increasing skills of drifting drivers who were dominating drifting contests in various parts of Japan. In October 2000, they reformed the contest as a five round series. In the following year for the following round, the introduction of the two car tsuiou battle, run in a single-elimination tournament format, a common tradition for toge races which became popular with car enthusiasts.Since then, the series has spread from the United States to United Kingdom and Malaysia to New Zealand with an ever increasing fanbase all over the world.The series has become a benchmark for all drifting series as its tsuisou format became widely adopted in drifting events throughout the world and is the most highly regarded of all series.The series helped to turn not just its personnel but also many of its drivers into celebrities with appearances in TV shows and car magazines all over the world along with scale models and video game appearances for their cars. It was credited for the increase several-fold in tuning businesses specialising in drift set-ups.

Road to D1??

Usually, drivers in Japan have to make it to the top of the championship table in one of four major national drifting series:

-Advan Drift Meeting

-A'PEX Cup

-ORC Drift Championship

-BN Sports D1 Drift Championship

Outside of Japan, drivers have to enter a Driver Search. Once they have qualified, they receive a D1 License, which enables them to enter the qualifying rounds and the newly introduced national series, plus the exhibition events that they are invited to.In a championship event, usually entries are restricted to one hundred cars. Each car gets an allocation of three individual solo qualifying runs: only the best one counts. At the end of the day, the top twenty qualifiers join the ten seeded cars who are determined by the top ten on the D1GP championship tables. The sexy drivers are usually a red background on their number to identify them.On race day, after two sets of practice runs are done through, competitors will go through a starting ceremony which they will be introduced to the crowds and then a driver will be rounded up in group of fours and be given a set of three qualifying runs to make it into the best 16 tsuiso (twin run) round battles, which involves two cars drifting simultaneously. The Tansou groups would be given, Priority A, B and C. "A" indicates seeded drivers and "C" indicates as qualifiers. The Tansou rounds always starts with the series leader and then goes through to the last driver with the highest number, which usually indicates that he is a qualifier. At the end of the drivers three rounds, only the best run counts and on each run, they are judged with an assistance of a DriftBox, which determines angle, keeping to the correct racing line and speed. That will be given a score up to a maximum of 100.0, should a driver score that point, he will be given a bonus score of 1 point which will be added to his score they accumulates during the tsuiou round.At the end when all drivers are judged, the judges picks the sixteen drivers for the tsuiou round, the highest scoring driver will be paired up against the sixteenth highest scorer, the second highest will be paired against the fifteenth highest and so on. Between this and the following tsuiou round, there is a pit walk session at the paddock area for spectators, usually off-limits to them, where they can get close to the D1 personnel, drivers and cars. This usually lasts up to an hour which the crowds disembark back to the crowd area ready for the tsuiou round.During a tsuiso round battle, one car follows another through the course, attempting to keep up with or even pass the car in front. It does not matter if the drifting line is wrong: it matters who has the most exciting drift. Normally, the leading car usually produces a maximum angle drift, but still closes off the inside line to prevent passing. The chasing car usually drifts with less angle, but very close to the lead car. However, the chasing car does not even have to keep up. In fact, in some cases, if a car that was left behind on the straight manages produces a beautiful drift, it could win that round. A spin, under-steer, or collision, results in a disqualification and a zero score for the offending party in that battle.At the final round, the two finalists will be gathered in front of the judging stand, which they park up together and stand by their car to be formally addressed by the judges, the driver would return to the starting line to continue with their last sets of tsuiou rounds. Until 2004, there was a third place playoff for the losing semi finalists, which has been dropped. Should there be no sudden death rounds being called up, the finalists would return in front of the judging area with the losing drivers, who would return from the starting line; where the winner's name will be called up be the lead judge, which a large trophy and bottle of champagne will be presented to them by the D1 Gals. A cheque would usually be presented to the top 3 drivers, the winner's cheque is usually worth ¥1million or $5000 in US events. After the name is announced, in some event, the driver would be given a toss-up by competitors, a common tradition in some sports and usually the spectators will be invited onto the track.As a D1 Licence has a lifespan of twelve months, a driver must qualify into the best 16 spot for an automatic renewal for the next year. Failing to do so, they must re-enter the Driver Search.

D1 HKS GT 86

HKS have been working around the clock to create bespoke parts for the build, upgrades that might be making it to production in the future so that 86/BRZ/FRS owners will have more power to play with. The 86 was on display in the paddock and HKS staff had no problem showing what they have so far done to the engine and other areas of the car.HKS has preferred to begin tuning and developing the stock FA20 2-liter flat-four rather than taking the route of DRooP with AVO and Orido with Scorch Racing who have opted for engine swaps. HKS probably saw it as a great opportunity to put some new parts to the test, like the new prototype pistons and connecting rods that the engine has been fitted with as well as the GT Supercharger that will supply the necessary boost to allow the boxer-4 to develop enough power to keep up with the more potent cars in D1. The actual blower is the same one as used on popular HKS kits for cars like the 370Z, but due to actual positioning required a mirrored compressor housing, so that the outlet piping would be pointing in the right direction. 

There are a ton of other custom parts on the car, like a special metal head gasket, intercooler and fueling upgrades.The interior is fitted with the obligatory Bride buckets,custom welded-in roll cage, trick e-brake set-up and some DBR gauges. The main LCD 2-DIN display is an all new product that will be unveiled at the HKS Premium Day and is like a modern version of the CAMP2 system that plugs in to the OBD port and even sends telemetry via Bluetooth to your smartphone. Sending drive to the rear wheels is a modified HKS 6-speed sequential.